Cooking with Crosby Roamann: Duck a la Sean -- Seared Duck Breast with Cherries

There is something about seared duck that always seems so … decadent. But what I love about duck is how simple and easy it can be, whether we simply take a couple duck confit and crisp them gently in the broiler with some boiled potatoes and a green salad for Sunday brunch, or sear up some duck breasts in a sauté pan for a somewhat more formal dinner. This recipe falls into the latter category. It has all the hallmarks of fine French cooking, but while it is exceptionally decadent and serious, it also incredibly simple. Only a couple ingredients are needed, and the majority of the prep time is spent halving and pitting cherries, half of which get eaten by whoever is chopping or talking with me in the kitchen (you know who you are!).

This is also a terribly romantic meal, and sure to impress, with a minimum of tedium. Enjoy!

Ingredients (Serves four)

• 4 Duck breasts, about 1 pound each
• Kosher salt
• Olive oil for searing the duck breasts.

For the spice rub:

• 1 heaping teaspoon plus of freshly ground pepper (black or rainbow, I prefer rainbow)
• 1 ½ teaspoons ground allspice
• 6 crushed cloves
• ½ heaping teaspoon fennel seeds
• 1 teaspoon ground ginger

For the Cherry Sauce:

• ½ cup turbinado sugar
• ½ cup red wine vinegar
• 1 cup good red wine
• 1 cup chicken broth
• Pinch of Cayenne
• Kosher salt
• 4 tablespoons butter
• 1 pound ripe red cherries, halved and pitted by hand
• 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, like baker’s sugar
• 1 tablespoon Kirsch

Preparation

Trim excess fat from the folds of the duck skin and discard. Score the skin of the duck breasts with three 1” strips at a diagonal set 1” apart, careful not to pierce the tender meat beneath the fat. Season the duck breasts generously with Kosher salt, then evenly sprinkly the Spice Rub mixture to each top and bottom of each duck breast. Use your fingers to work the spice rub into the meat. Wrap the duck breasts in plastic and set them in the refrigerator for the balance of the day (it’s best to do this in the morning of the day you plan to cook them) -- The spice rub will infuse the duck breasts with a wonderfully gingery and tangy flavor.

Prep the sauce: Melt the turbinado sugar in red wine vinegar over medium heat, stirring continually, about 4 minutes. Add the red wine, and bring it to a boil. When the wine begins to boil, reduce the heat to medium and gently cook off the alcohol – you’ll be able to smell it when the alcohol is gone – then add the chicken broth and return the sauce to a boil. Add the ginger, pepper, and a light touch of salt, reduce the heat, and stir over a simmer for five minutes or so more. This is the sauce base, and can be set aside until you are ready to cook the cherries.

Now it’s time to prep (and snack on!) those delicious cherries. This is a good time to open a bottle of Pinot Noir and discuss the day’s events while you prep – you can find one here from Crosby Roamann – and remove the duck breasts from the fridge, unwrap them, and set them aside. For the sauce, we like to use cherries from our two cherry trees – one is a golden yellow with red highlights, and the other is a deep red – but the dish is really better with sweet red cherries from the market. Halve the cherries and pit them with a sharp paring knife, then set aside.

Melt the butter in a wide saucepan, add the sugar, and let the sugar dissolve, then add the cherries and bring this all together over high heat, stirring every minute or so. The cherries will start to break down and release their juice. When they do so, carefully add the shot of Kirsch, boil it all for one more minute, stir the sauce to bring it all together, and remove from the heat. Keep the sauce warm on the stovetop while you fire the duck breasts. (If the cherries are still too tough, you can add them back for another couple minutes on the stovetop when the duck is resting.)

Now it’s time to sear the duck and assemble your feast. In a large sauté pan with a tablespoon of olive oil over medium high heat, sear the duck breasts skin side down for about 7 minutes (you may have to work in batches, depending on the size of the duck breasts and the size of the sauté pan). Flip the breasts and continue to sear another 5 minutes. The duck should have a deeply golden-brown hue. You will know the duck is just ready when the meat shows signs of juicing into the pan. Remove from the heat and let the duck rest for 5 minutes. Then slice the duck breasts on a diagonal, cover with the warm cherry sauce, and serve.

Bon appetit!

Serving recommendation: Allard Potatoes or Fancy White Mashed Potatoes, Seared Tarragony String Beans.

Wine Pairing: Napa Valley Merlot or Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir.

Inspired by: David Tanis for The New York Times, “Dining & Wine: Recipes – Duck With Cherries and Red Wine Vinegar” downloaded June 11, 2014 at 3:40pm.